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Handy Weaving Charts

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Reed Substitution Warp & Weft Calculation

Determining Yardage by

Count System

COMMON YARNS SETT CHART

YARN SIZE

yd/lb

tabby

twill

Cotton

20/2 cotton 8,400 24-30 32-36
10/2 cotton 4,200 24-28 30
8/2 cotton 3,000 16-20 24-30
8/4 cotton 1,680 12-15 20
5/2 cotton 2,100 15-18 20
4/2 cotton 840 12-15 20
3/2 cotton 1,260 10-12 15
Silk
30/2 silk 7,500 30-32 36-45
12/2 silk 3,000 18-20 22-24
Linen
20/2 linen 3,000 20-24 30
20/1 linen 6,000 24-30 36-40
12/1 linen 3,600 22-25 30-32
4/1/ linen 1,400 12-15 15-18

Wool

YARN SIZE

yd/lb

tabby

twill
20/2  worsted wool 5,600 20-24 28
12/3  worsted wool 2,160 15-18 20
6.5/1 wool 3,200 18-20 22-25
12/2 wool 3,000 18-20 22-25
7/2 wool 1,640 12-15 15-18
6.5/2 wool 1,600 10-12 15-18
1.3/1 wool 600 8-12 12-15
2.2/2 wool 550 8-10 10-12

MOHAIR

YARN SIZE

yd/lb

tabby

twill
Boucle or Loop 1000 6-8 6-8
Brushed Mohair 800 4-8 4-8

 

Determine Sett using WPI, wraps per inch.  epi, Ends per inch

Balanced plain weave, WPI / 2 = epi

Warp face plain weave, WPI X 2 = epi

Weft face plain weave:  WPI / 3 = epi

Balanced 2/2 twill: WPI x 2/3 = epi

Converting commercial Handknitting Yarns.  example for balanced plain weave

  Yds/Lb Wool Yds/Lb Cotton

Wraps per "

WPI / 2 Sett
Lace weight 2500+ 2500+ 35 + 36/2 18 epi
Fingering weight 1675-2100 1600-2000 19-22 20/2  10 epi
Sport weight 1350-1650 1350-1550 15-18 16/2  8 epi
Double Knit DK 1100-1300 1000-1300 12-14 12/2 6 epi
Worsted weight 900-1100 650-850 9-11 10/2 5 epi
Bulky weight 500-800 400-600  8 or less 8/2 4 epi

WARP SETT REED SUBSTITUTION CHART (ENDS PER INCH)

Order of Sley in Reed Reed Size in Dents per Inch
5 6 8 10 12 15 18 20
0-0-1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 7
0-1 2 1/2 3 4 5 6 7 1/2 9 10
0-1-1 3 4 5 7 8 10 12 13
0-1-1-1 4 4 1/2 6 7 1/2 9 11 1/2 13 1/2 15
1 5 6 8 10 12 15 18 20
1-1-1-2 6 7 1/2 10 12 1/2 15 19 22 1/2 25
1-1-2 7 8 11 13 16 20 24 27
1-2 7 1/2 9 12 15 18 22 1/2 27 30
1-2-2 8 10 13 17 20 25 30 33
1-2-2-2 9 10 1/2 14 17 1/2 21 26 31 1/2 35
2 10 12 16 20 24 30 36 40
2-2-2-3 11 13 1/2 18 22 1/2 27 34 40 1/2 45
2-2-3 12 14 19 23 28 35 42 47
2-3 12 1/2 15 20 25 30 37 1/2 45 50
2-3-3 13 16 21 27 32 40 48 53
2-3-3-3 14 16 1/2 22 27 1/2 33 41 49 1/2 55
3 15 18 24 30 36 45 54 60
3-3-3-4 16 19 1/2 26 32 1/2 39 49 58 1/2 65
3-3-4 17 20 27 33 40 50 60 67
3-4 17 1/2 21 28 35 42 52 1/2 63 70
3-4-4 18 22 29 37 44 55 66 73
4 20 24 32 40 48 60 72 80
4-4-5 22 26 35 43 52 65 78 87
4-5-5 23 28 37 47 56 70 84 93
5 25 30 40 50 60 75 90 100

WARP AND WEFT CALCULATIONS

Warp Length

Finished length of total piece......................
Fringe/Hems.............................................
Shrinkage (depends on yarn & finishing)....
Take-up (10% for balanced weave)............

Extra length for samples..............................
Loom waste of 18" to 36"..........................
TOTAL LENGTH OF WARP

divided by 36 to change  to yards


 
     ____________________inches 
   +____________________inches 
   +____________________inches 
   +____________________inches 

   +____________________inches 
   +____________________inches 
   (Add All Lines) = _______inches 

                           = ______ yards*

Warp Width

Finished Width...........................................
Draw-in (10% - 15%)..................................
Shrinkage (of weft yarn - 10% - 15%)..........
TOTAL WIDTH...........................................

Multiply WIDTH x Ends per Inch (EPI)..........
TOTAL WIDTH X EPI = TOTAL # OF ENDS

 

 ____________________inches
+____________________inches
+____________________inches
+____________________inches

Add All Lines = _______inches

                   X ________EPI 
                       =________ENDS 

Materials Required for Warp

TOTAL # of ENDS.......................................
times TOTAL LENGTH of warp (see * above)
= YARDS OF WARP NEEDED....................

                   

  _________ 
x _________ 
= ________YARDS 

Calculate Weft Yarn

Width in reed
+ Take up..................................................
= Length of one weft shot (pick)..................
x  Picks per Inch (PPI)...............................
x  Weaving Length (in yards, see *above)....
= TOTAL YARDS needed for weft................

 

__________________inches 
+__________________inches 
=__________________inches 
x __________________inches 
= _________________YARDS 

Determining Yardage with Count System

Yardages for size 1 

Fiber Count
Cotton, spun silk 840
Linen, hemp, jute, ramie 300
Woolen Yarn 256
Worsted Yarn 560

For Higher Count: 

Multiply the count times the yardage of size 1.  

Size 20 (20/1) Cotton or Silk.   Multiple 840 yds by 20 = 16,800 yds/lb

The Second number indicates number of plies.

Count

Yardage/per lb

20/1 16800
20/2 8400
20/3 5600
Nm Count
The Nm Count system is used for hemp yarns. Nm is the number of meters in 1 gram of yarn.  To calculate how many meters are in 1 kg. multiply the Nm count by 1000.

Linen

Wet spun flax fibers yield a yarn with a smooth finish. Dry spun flax fibers yield yarn has a softer finish.

Tow linen is spun from shorter, sometimes cut, flax fibers. Tow linen can be wet spun or dry spun and is usually plied for greater strength.

Line linen is wet spun from the longest flax fibers. Line linen yarn has a smooth surface and is very strong. It is usually sold as a singles yarn (not plied) and is relatively expensive.

Lea: 1 lea linen has 300 yards, a 5 lea linen has 1500 yards

 

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